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One Day in a City > Destinations > Europe > Greece > Visiting Athens: Love it and Hate it

Visiting Athens: Love it and Hate it

November 2, 2020 By Gina
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My Love/Hate Dichotomy When I Visit Athens, Greece

Visit Athens: Where history and urban sprawl combine.
Athens: Where history and dirty, urban sprawl combine.

I have this thing where I just can’t dislike a foreign city. It seems wrong. It’s really not that hard if you’re keeping an open mind to find something interesting or thrilling about a place that is not where you’re from and has different cultures, architecture, and food. Maybe it’s not exactly my cup of tea, but there’s no point in disliking somewhere just because it’s different.

However, during the couple of times I’ve considered myself fortunate enough to visit Athens, I’ve come very close to disliking the city.

My first time in Athens made me want to shout at whoever developed the city that they completely ruined it. A lot of the new buildings are ugly, it’s smelly and dirty (garbage cans are not a bad thing to have), and its non-Acropolis monuments are plopped amidst busy roads and smog with seemingly no attention paid to them, as if when the city started to become more developed for the 20th century, they debated just bulldozing over everything, but then were like “well, I guess we can just veer a little bit to the left and go around it.”

Visit Athens: A sprawling, chaotic metropolis
Athens: A sprawling, chaotic metropolis

When you stand atop lookout points in other cities, such as San Francisco, or Rome, or London, or Bangkok, there is a basic grid to it. Whether it’s with curved lines or straight lines, there is some semblance of balance and organization to the way a city grows out from its core. Athens does not have this. It looks like aliens just zapped down buildings and parks from outer space with no semblance of what was already there or where they would land and today the city is a sprawling disaster of old and new architecture smooshed together in an un-cohesive mess.

This isn’t to say it’s not gorgeous to stare out at the city from a hilltop. It is. It just also gives off a chaotic vibe, which is hard to escape once you come down from the vantage point and are back in the midst of Athens’ streets.

Even the Acropolis, as majestic as it, gives off a sad air. Like it’s holding onto its pride while slowly being strip searched. Most of the authentic parts of the Acropolis that are still in one piece have been excavated and moved out of the Acropolis area to the Acropolis Museum, where visitors now have to pay an extra fee to see them. And the information signs dotting the landscape of the Acropolis as you walk through, particularly by the Parthenon, detail out the renovations that have happened and are going to happen there, not the historic past the Acropolis should be proudly proclaiming – for that you’ll need to rent a human or audio guide. So you stand there, staring at the Parthenon, and you know it’s not really the original – you can see the different shades in the stone where the original Parthenon and the new Parthenon collide. It makes me think of the scene from the animated movie, “Despicable Me” where they figure out that the Great Pyramids of Egypt are fake – but no one can tell until a kid bounces off of them.

I get that renovations need to be done on old historic sites to keep them in one piece for future generations to see – or even to be presentable to visitors in the first place – and I know that most old landmarks I visit have had work done to them, but the reconstruction of the buildings of the Acropolis, again – particularly the Parthenon – seems like they may have gone a bit overboard. Even the Caryatid statues holding up the Erechteion Temple in the Acropolis are replicas – to see the real ones, you’ll have to visit the Acropolis Museum. The first time I visited the Acropolis, they were housed in an onsite museum. There was nothing grand about that museum, unlike the new one, but at least it was right there. Who knows – maybe someday the artifacts of the Acropolis, including the Caryatid statues, will be moved again, out of Athens, getting farther and farther from their origins.

But, ultimately, when visiting Athens, it’s hard for me to overlook that this is the land that Socrates stood on, the land that Plato philosophized on, and the land that was home to all the great minds that developed civilization and democracy. To visit and stand on that land and say I 100% dislike the city? Nope, can’t do it. When I was there, I loved that I was walking through an area that so many famous ancient politicians had led throughout, even I suppose, while liquid was dripping on my head from foyers over the sidewalks.

So for that reason alone, I only almost dislike Athens.

Have you had the opportunity to visit Athens? What were your thoughts on the city?

About Gina

I'm a former travel agency marketing director turned freelance travel writer. My editorial and copywriting work has been published on and in USA TODAY, Travel + Leisure, the Travel Channel Cities app, TripSavvy, and many more online and print publications. I especially love sharing my knowledge of traveling with limited vacation time, making the most of cruise ports of call, and vacationing with kids. I also enjoy sharing my favorite travel gear and products to make traveling easier!

Comments

  1. Gina says

    June 9, 2015 at

    The food is amazing!

  2. jane jessie says

    June 8, 2015 at

    I have never been to Athens but hope to visit there soon. I have heard that they have lovely food.

  3. Gina says

    June 19, 2014 at

    Hi Tony, thanks for commenting. I’ve been saddened to hear the reports coming out of Athens the past year and hope that the city can get back to reclaiming some of its former glory soon. I agree with you that amidst all the chaos there were pockets of absolute loveliness.

  4. tony says

    June 10, 2014 at

    Totally understand the negative view of Athens. I have been there a whole bunch of times, starting back in 1984, sometimes just passing through others staying a day or two. This year more than ever it feels like a place collapsing in on itself with so much being left to crumble and decay. It used to have a quaintness in all of the mess and chaos but not any more. Just the mess and chaos remain.

  5. Gina says

    January 22, 2014 at

    Thanks for sharing, Theo! It’s always nice to hear another perspective. And I definitely understand what you’re saying about the artwork – it is best to keep them safe and preserved.

  6. Theo says

    January 19, 2014 at

    It i s not true that you are not seeing the true Acropolis-Parthenon.The buildings-temples-columns are the originals.Only the artwork-ornaments-statues have been moved to be preserved. They are world class, 25 centuries old art work..could not be left exposed..That’s why they are in the Acropolis museum.

    Additionally there is a reason the city has developed as it has..it is 3000 years old and has been developed, destroyed, rebuilt etcAdditionally, a city is not alwayes developed only in order to satisfy asthetic pleasure.. it serves and reflects mainly the history of its people and for Greece it has often been a history of poverty, occupation, immigration of greek communities outside its borders with need of quick housing etc

  7. Gina says

    June 9, 2013 at

    If you’ve never been, definitely do the Acropolis. It may be touristy, but it’s still a piece of history that is awe-inspiring. Let me know what you ended up doing.

  8. Gabby says

    June 3, 2013 at

    I’m going on a cruise in a few days and flying straight to Athens. I’ve heard this about Athens as well. I am not sure what to do when I’m there.

  9. Gina says

    November 7, 2012 at

    Hi Margyle, that’s part of the reason I was hesitant to write this because I didn’t want to perpetuate the stereotype. But considering I gave the city a second chance and STILL felt that way, I thought I’d share. Hopefully you will experience Athens someday and who knows – maybe you’ll absolutely love it!

  10. Gina says

    November 7, 2012 at

    I can’t agree with you on Rome – it’s my favorite big city in Europe! So let’s agree to disagree, and you can love Athens and I can love Rome. 😉

  11. Margyle says

    October 31, 2012 at

    It’s so funny to hear you say that about Athens because I’ve heard it from nearly everyone – even people who are from there – that it’s a mess and kinda unpleasant. But yeah, you think about all the history and what the city represents to the history of the western world and it just kind of blows your mind. I’ve had people tell me the same thing about Rome… and I had an amazing time there and can’t wait to go back! So I guess I’ll just have to see Athens for myself one day!

  12. Simon says

    October 31, 2012 at

    I love Athens – but I can see why someone wouldn’t like it. It’s smelly and chaotic and mental, but I love the little night market and the way the acropolis lights up at night. Believe it or not, I like it a hell of a lot better than Rome!!

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