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One Day in a City > Destinations > Europe > Ireland > How to Get to Skellig Michael Without a Reservation

How to Get to Skellig Michael Without a Reservation

November 2, 2020 By Gina 9 Comments
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Tour Boats All Full? Here’s How I Got to Skellig Michael Without a Reservation

Can you believe these people thought they could make a last minute reservation to see us on Skellig Michael?
Can you believe these people thought they could make a last-minute reservation to see us?

Booked. Booked. Booked.

Weโ€™d gone down the whole list and not a single Skellig Michael boat operator had an opening.

Tom and I looked at each other and I groaned. โ€œI should have known! And I call myself a travel writer? Why did we wait so long to book this?!โ€

It was two weeks before our couples trip to Ireland and between chasing after a toddler, work, and finalizing the details of the trip, figuring out Skellig Michael kept getting pushed back and suddenly the trip had snuck upon us and was here.

Was I going to miss out on seeing Skellig Michael AGAIN?
Was I going to miss out on seeing this AGAIN?

And thanks to Star Wars, every boat that dropped passengers off at the island had been completely booked for months.

I tried to find solace in this fact โ€“ that even if Iโ€™d called immediately upon booking my summer flight to Ireland, the tours would have been full. But maybe we would have gotten lucky, Iโ€™d then think.

โ€œMaybe Iโ€™m just not meant to see Skellig Michael,โ€ I said sadly and a bit dramatically to Tom.

At least I wouldn't have to climb the many, many stairs...
At least I wouldn’t have to climb the many, many stairs…

Skellig Michael is a massive rock starkly jutting out of the ocean off the coast of the Ring of Kerry drive in Ireland. It seems uninhabitable at first glance, yet Monks lived a hermit lifestyle on the island in beehive huts for centuries, among the many puffin birds who breed on the island ever year.

Beehive huts that monks used to live in on Skellig Michael.
Puffins overlooking Little Skellig in the distance.

I first learned about Skellig Michael on my last trip to Ireland in 2013, but I had missed the boat season to travel there by just a week. (You can only visit it mid-May through the end of September.) Iโ€™d decided my next trip to Ireland would be in the summer so I could see it with my own eyes.

Looking out at the sea from the monks habitat on Skellig Michael.

But then in 2015, a little movie called Star Wars came out. That last scene โ€“ yes, the one where you-know-who is found โ€“ was filmed at Skellig Michael. Suddenly, everyone wanted to go to Skellig Michael โ€“ and not because of the monks and the birds.

As I sat on our couch at home and bemoaned the fact that Star Wars ruined our chances of going to Skellig Michael, Tom said: โ€œWeโ€™ll show up in the morning like the guy said. You never know.โ€

The โ€œguyโ€ was one of the few tour operators who didnโ€™t immediately laugh at us for trying to book two weeks away and took pity on our plight so kindly offered us this advice: get there early on the morning you want to go to Skellig Michael; be there by 7 a.m. Be ready to get on a boat. Talk to the boat captains and let them know youโ€™re there and ready to immediately board if thereโ€™s a no-show. Then, he had said, thereโ€™s a tiny chance you might get on a boat.

So that was our plan. We were going to be staying in Killarney and so would get up at 5 a.m. to do the drive to Portmagee (the departureย point for boatsย to Skellig Michael) and figured if we didnโ€™t get on a boat, weโ€™d at least have beaten some of the traffic and continue on our way around the Ring of Kerry.

Then we got to Killarney and every single local person we mentioned this plan to looked at us like we were crazy and told us there was no way weโ€™d get on a boat. At this point, I was pretty much like what is the point? Letโ€™s just sleep in.

But Tom persevered. And so we woke up early โ€“ and this is what happened that led to us getting on a Skellig Michael boat without a reservationโ€ฆ

(If youโ€™d like the nuts and bolts of how we did it without the narrative story of our exact experience, scroll to the bottom of this post to the Quick Tips section.)

How To Get on a Boat to Skellig Michael Without a Reservation

Step 1

Arrive in Portmagee at 7:20. Because you were so sure this was probably a lost cause, you hit snooze a couple times and so arrive in Portmagee later than โ€œthe guyโ€ recommended. This will prove to be a point of stress because two other groups equaling six people are in front of you. Figure youโ€™re definitely not getting on a boat now. Wait anyway.

Step 2

Will we ever get on a boat to Skellig Michael? Looking unlikely...
Will we ever get on a boat? Looking unlikely…

Meander over to the booth for the sail around the island boats (which donโ€™t stop and let you walk around the island) to ask what your chances are of getting on a Skellig Michael boat without a reservation. โ€œAh, hard to say, youโ€™ll be in the queue after those two groupsโ€ was about the best answer we received.

You respect the queue, which youโ€™ll learn is a moot point anyway (more on that later).

Step 3

Dock for the Skellig Michael boats.

Take your place in line on the narrow platform next to the dock.

Step 4

Wait and make small talk with other waiters who arrived before you as no one else has come after you (the before 7 advice is legit). Other people waiting: a dad and his two kids who want to see the birds. You respect this. They are very nice. If anyone was going to beat you on this boat for getting up early, you are glad it is a bunch of nice bird lovers. The other group are three guys wearing Star Wars shirts — send them mind glares and think how you will not be pleased if a bunch of science fiction lovers get to go to Skellig Michael instead of you (conveniently forget the fact that you also love Star Wars).

Learn the dad and his kids stayed 20 minutes up the road. Think how that was a good idea because they were able to get to the dock at 6:45 a.m. without having to wake up before dawn. Smart bird lovers.

Step 5

Suddenly think to ask husband how much cash he has.

โ€œ20 Euros,โ€ he replies.

โ€œWhat?!โ€

โ€œWhy?โ€

โ€œWe need cash for this if we actually get on a boat.โ€

โ€œThey donโ€™t take credit cards?โ€

โ€œThey are old men in fishing boats! No, they donโ€™t take credit cards!โ€

Husband runs to sail-around-boat booth and learns nearest ATM is twenty minutes away. He drives away to get cash. Decide youโ€™ll throw yourself into the icy water in despair if you can actually get on a boat but canโ€™t because you forgot to communicate about cash.

Step 6

Notice itโ€™s getting more crowded on the platform. You and the bird-loving Dad sidle your way onto the dock right next to the gate before youโ€™re lost among the crowd. You want the boat captains to remember youโ€™re there!

Step 7

Chat with Star Wars YouTube vlogger who just arrived and who says she booked six months ago and this was the soonest she could get in. Note she is from Ireland and wonder why she didnโ€™t try a no-reservation wait to get on a boat. Sigh that maybe this really is pointless.

Step 8

Despite expected pointlessness, continue to smile sweetly at every boat captain that walks by. Several of them ask how many you have. โ€œTwo but can be one,โ€ you respond. โ€œMy husband says he doesnโ€™t mind waiting and drinking in the pub.โ€

Hear the guy to your right start laughing. โ€œThatโ€™s great!โ€ He chortles. Start chatting with guy who is there with his wife and daughter also without a reservation, but they have just arrived at 9 a.m.

Think Slackers.

Also, realize this means you could have arrived at 9 a.m. and had the same spot in queue. Then sigh upon realizing 6:45 a.m. would still have been better.

Step 9

Watch boat captain walk by and talk to first group. โ€œHow many?โ€ โ€œThree.โ€ โ€œCโ€™mon.โ€ And suddenly nice dad and kids are whisked through the coveted gate.

A few minutes later another boat captain walks by. โ€œHow many?โ€ he asks Star Wars group spokesperson. โ€œThree.โ€ Boat captain nods, but doesnโ€™t escort them through the gate.

Call husband. โ€œWhere are you? People are actually making it through the gate!โ€ Husband is back with cash, but looking for parking since sleepy little Portmagee is suddenly busy with all the people arriving who actually do have reservations for Skellig Michael.

Portmagee
Portmagee

Boat captain #2 suddenly appears again and whisks in the Star Wars lovers.

Bemoan the fact that the snooze button was ever invented.

Must. Get. Through. That. Gate.
Must. Get. Through. That. Gate.

Step 10 aka How many times you can embarrass yourself in 15 minutes

Husband returns. You wait an agonizing 10 minutes together wondering if another boat captain will whisk you away, too. Husband leaves again to the bathroom. Shortly after, another boat captain appears.

โ€œHow many?โ€ the weathered, gray-haired man asks in a heavy, hard-to-understand accent.

โ€œTwo!โ€ you respond excitedly. This is it, you think, weโ€™re getting on!

Old man frowns and looks at guy next to you. โ€œI have three spots. How many?โ€ He directs the question to the man this time.

You stare confused, wondering what is happening. Didnโ€™t he say three spots? So meaning he can fit two? Why is he passing you by? Thereโ€™s a queue!

โ€œThree,โ€โ€™ the man answers, but says so uncertainly as he glances at you.

Old man beckons for the three of them to come. Husband is just coming back from bathroom and watching all this in confusion.

โ€œBut wait, it you have three spots, why canโ€™t you fit us two?โ€ you ask, gesturing to yourself and husband. โ€œWe were here first and have been waiting much longer.โ€

Old man shakes his head and says something hard to decipher, but once again sounds like three spots is the problem.

You wonder, is this a money thing to make sure he fills the boat and makes his quota for the day?

โ€œOh, I can pay for three spots,โ€ you offer.

Old man looks immediately angry and begins muttering at you and walking away.

Another boat captain appears. โ€œHe has twelve spots so he has to take three.โ€ He explains while he begins ushering the three people next to me through the gate.

โ€œButโ€ฆโ€

The three 9 a.m. arrivals pass you sheepishly, but in their defense, did try to defer, so you arenโ€™t mad at them. Just the process.

Husband is apparently a better communicator with Old Irish Men because he understood everything the old man said and he was mad you were trying to bribe him with money and take a spot away from someone.

โ€œI wasnโ€™t trying to bribe him! I was just trying to understand if the problem was he needed to make the money from three spots!โ€

โ€œBut heโ€™d still have the room, so youโ€™d be taking the spot away from someone.โ€

Acknowledge this makes senseโ€ฆsort ofโ€ฆbut point out that the spot was also taken away from you as a result of that logic. Husband agrees. You two are once again communicating and on same wavelength.

But it is a landlocked wavelength.

Stare longingly at the boats and flip flop between embarrassment (over being โ€œthat Americanโ€ who said the wrong thing and was apparently trying to fling money at locals and feel like a horrible person despite it all being a misunderstanding) and despair (over the fact that boats are starting to leave the harbor and you are likely not going to be on one of them because you are a group of two instead of three).

Stare longingly at the remaining boats some more through the grates of the gate as if your lover is lost at sea.

Longing stares get interrupted by thirty-something blonde man.

โ€œHow many?โ€ He asks you.

โ€œTwo?โ€ You respond as a question, hoping it’s the right answer.

โ€œI can fit you.โ€

Stare at husband in disbelief than giddily back at blonde man, who is already pointing out the boat before walking back toward the parking lot. Wonder who this amazing blonde man / prophet speaker is and decide he is a gift from the Ring of Kerry gods.

Realize you have not gone to the bathroom in over three hours and drank a large coffee in that time.

Run down to boat first to make sure they know youโ€™re coming.

“We made it. Weโ€™re here! Do I have time to go to the bathroom?โ€ you ask the old man at the helm.

He looks at you startled. โ€œIโ€™m not sure. Iโ€™m not working on this boat.โ€

You realize he is wearing a life jacket and standing next to his grandson. Obviously not the boat captain. Now youโ€™re the stupid American who thinks every old man is a Skellig Michael boat captain. Still, youโ€™re too elated to be on the boat to care.

โ€œOh, of course! I know! Sorry, Iโ€™m just excited to be here!โ€ You try to cover your misstep. โ€œWho is the captain?โ€

He points back toward the parking lot to the blonde man.

Oh, of course. Feeling stupid yet still giddy (this is why people shouldnโ€™t wake up at 5 a.m.), you run back to the man and ask if you can use the bathroom.

Blonde man continues to be nice and says yes and you realize you were holding your breath because you were worried heโ€™d say: โ€œNo, stupid American, if you didnโ€™t already go to the bathroom, no boat for you!โ€

Forget Seinfeld references when you dash out of the bathroom and realize you havenโ€™t eaten all morning because you assumed a cafรฉ would be open while you waited for the boats.

Dash to the nearby convenience store and buy a couple bags of mixed nuts.

Dash back past the Blonde Man. โ€œIโ€™m back,โ€ you exclaim excitedly. Blonde Man looks uninterested.

Get back to husband on boat and thrust food at him. โ€œOh, I already bought some snack bars when I got cash,โ€ he said and proffers them out of his coat.

Decide you and husband really need to learn to communicate better while traveling together.

But who cares? Because you are on boat. Realize you left all your warm clothes in car and itโ€™s probably going to be freezing on boat.

Ask husband โ€œDo you think I have time to go to car? Where are you parked?โ€ right when Blonde Man comes strolling up onto boat. Debate asking him if you have time but then decide against it as visions of Seinfeld and โ€œNo Boat for You!โ€ come back into your head.

Sit down and rationalize you can just steal non-communicating husbandโ€™s coat.

Step 11 aka You are on a boat!

Good-bye Ring of Kerry...
Good-bye Ring of Kerry…
Hello Skellig Michael!
…Hello Skellig Michael!

Worry the whole way to island that you canโ€™t be this lucky and something is likely going to happen so you canโ€™t actually dock and get off the boat at the island.

Worry despite the fact that the sun is miraculously coming out and youโ€™re not cold at all and OMG is that really the sun coming out? Is it going to actually be sunny while youโ€™re at Skellig Michael? How lucky can you be today, really?

Captain skillfully navigating the boat to Skellig Michael's little pier.
Captain skillfully navigating the boat to Skellig Michael’s little pier.
The Skellig Michael pier. You see why this is not a safe place to dock during rough days at sea.
The pier. You see why this is not a safe place to dock during rough days at sea.

Pretty damn lucky you realize when the boat does dock and you begin walking up the stairs with all the stark beauty surrounding you. Feel happy that husband is there with you to experience it and very glad that he is not drinking Guinness back in Portmagee.

OMG YOU ARE ON SKELLIG MICHAEL!
OMG YOU ARE ON SKELLIG MICHAEL!

Step 12 aka Bask in no-reservation Skellig Michael wonderment!

See other no-reservation groups on island.

โ€œYou made it, yay!โ€ Dad w/ Bird Loving Kids is happy and takes picture of you.

โ€œYou made it, yay!โ€ Late Dad w/ Wife + Daughter says with relief. Apologize to Late Dad w/ Wife + Daughter for trying to bribe (apparently?) your way in front of them (even if you were there first).

He brushes away your apology and says it was fine, you were there first and they were so worried you wouldnโ€™t get on, too, but it was all so confusing!

Yes, confusing! You agree.

Finish validating each otherโ€™s American feelings and then feel glad that old man didnโ€™t let you “bribe” him so this nice family could make it on, too.

See 1/3 of Star Wars group practically on ground from seasickness (or something) and feel bad you were sending them mind glares earlier.

Decide youโ€™ll be a Zen traveler from now on who has nary a worry in the world โ€“ after all, it all worked out didnโ€™t it? You made it! You are on Skellig Michael!

skellig-michael-blog-30
skellig-michael-blog-29
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skellig-michael-blog-13
skellig-michael-blog-20
skellig-michael-blog-27
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skellig-michael-blog-28

(Realize after a bird poops on you and your husband neglects to tell you that you have bird poop on your cheek โ€“ ahem, communication โ€“ that you are not destined to be a Zen traveler. But thatโ€™s ok. Because you still made it to Skellig Michael! Cue more pictures.)

skellig-michael-blog-48
skellig-michael-blog-37
skellig-michael-blog-35
skellig-michael-blog-34
skellig-michael-blog-33
skellig-michael-blog-12

Quick Tips for Getting to Skellig Michael Without a Reservation

So there you have it! How to get to Skellig Michael without a reservation. Of course, we could have just been very lucky the day we were there, but still โ€“ 11 of us got on without a reservation!

So that right there makes me think you shouldnโ€™t listen to naysayers and itโ€™s worth a try if itโ€™s your dream to visit Skellig Michael and it’s all booked up already. And for those of you who like your tips without the dramatic story thrown in ๐Ÿ˜‰ here are the main takeaways we got for how to achieve getting to Skellig Michael without a reservation.

  1. Get there before 7 a.m. to increase your chances of being first in the queue.
  2. Be ready! Have cash, food, and clothing with you. This would have been easier to grab if weโ€™d kept our original parking spot, but even so, donโ€™t require a run back to your car to get your stuff. Be ready when thereโ€™s a boat captain waiting to whisk you through the doors.
  3. Make yourself known, but do respect the queue. But also donโ€™t feel bad if you get the chance to go in front of someone who was there first if your group number is more appealing. Apparently thatโ€™s just the way it works. (Do #1 and you donโ€™t need to worry about any potential awkwardness from jumping the queue, though you may need to quietly grit your teeth if someone is selected before you.)
  4. Or donโ€™t quietly grit your teeth, but then be subject to Step 10 above where you feel like a horrible person!
  5. Going along with #3, be willing to split your group or join together with others if needed. Another reason to be chatty and get to know the other people without reservations waiting. Even if your group is split up on the boat, you all end up in the same place and can wait for each other at the start of the staircase. Just remember that if you split up and you get on the first boat available, there is no guarantee your travel partner(s) will get onto another one.
  6. One more tip to do before you leave for your trip: One of the other passengers on our boat said he called all the numbers for the Skellig Michael boats every day for three weeks before arriving in Ireland asking if there was space (hoping for cancellations) and a few days prior our boat captain said he had space. So, try that tactic, too, and maybe you won’t need to get up at the break of dawn on your vacation!

Also, one more thing I wanted to mention is what happens if you do have a reservation, but the day you are scheduled to go has weather that makes it dangerous for the boats to leave the shore and dock at Skellig Michael (to my understanding this happens many times throughout most summers).

Before leaving for our trip, I read a number of blog posts about Skellig Michael that were written before Star Wars Episode VII came out that said if you have a reservation, and the weather is bad, your reservation will simply be moved to the following day. Followed by a recommendation to give yourself a few days around the Portmagee area due to this.

Well, with every day being fully booked now and weather being unpredictable, I didnโ€™t understand how this could still be. I asked our boat captain before we got off the boat if thatโ€™s what still happened and he said very emphatically that you do not get moved to the next day and that was never a guaranteed thing.

So in other words, depending on weather, you still might not make it to the island even with a reservation andย may need to apply the above tactics on another day. However, I would think if you were reserved for one day and you show up the next day and that boat captain has room, he would move you ahead of the โ€œqueue,โ€ so best to ask whoever you book with what their protocol is for such a situation.

Lastly, Skellig Michael was seriously one of the coolest places I have seen on my travels. It’s worth building your trip to Ireland around it — and then hoping, hoping, hoping the weather cooperates.

Happy, happy, happy to have made it to Skellig Michael.
Happy, happy, happy to have made it to Skellig Michael.

Heading to Ireland soon? You also may enjoy reading:

One Day in Dublin
One Day in Limerick
One Day in Galway
What to See in Ireland’s Mid-West (Cliffs of Moher and Much More)
The Ring of Kerry Restaurant You Can’t Miss
Foynes Maritime Museum and How to Make an Irish Coffee

Pin these Skellig Michael tips to read again later! 

The rocky island of Skellig Michael is a UNESCO World Heritage Site located off the coast of the Ring of Kerry in Ireland. You can only access it via a limited number of boat operators. It is insanely popular since being featured in Star Wars Episode VII and boat reservations book up months in advance. Here are some tips for getting on a boat to Skellig Michael if you aren't able to get a reservation.

About Gina

I'm a former travel agency marketing director turned freelance travel writer. My editorial and copywriting work has been published on and in USA TODAY, Travel + Leisure, the Travel Channel Cities app, TripSavvy, and many more online and print publications. I especially love sharing my knowledge of traveling with limited vacation time, making the most of cruise ports of call, and vacationing with kids. I also enjoy sharing my favorite travel gear and products to make traveling easier!

Comments

  1. Haley Ellen says

    March 2, 2017 at

    This was hilarious and so helpful. I’m dreaming of getting to do Skellig Michael on my honeymoon trip!! Love your photos

    Reply
    • Gina says

      March 29, 2017 at

      Thanks, Haley, glad you enjoyed reading it! ๐Ÿ™‚ Hope you make it there for your honeymoon!

      Reply
  2. shaye says

    May 1, 2017 at

    I absolutely love this blog and feel as though I / we are in a similar situation. I am hoping to follow in your footsteps as we are looking at our own tour in 2 weeks! I have been calling and of course finding no openings. I appreciate all of your tips…..so hopefully we will get lucky. My husband is all about last minute planning but is not a morning person, so we shall see how this goes!

    Reply
  3. Sarah says

    June 30, 2017 at

    Thank you for this post! I am 2 months away from my trip to Ireland and thought it would be no problem to find availability for Skellig Michael…I was wrong! They are already completely booked up so I will probably be taking your advice!
    Just wanting to make sure that I have explored every possible boat tour, do you remember how many available companies there were that offered tours?

    Reply
    • Gina says

      August 17, 2017 at

      There were about a dozen. I’ll have to go back through my paper file from the trip and find the list. Hope you’re able to get there!

      Reply
  4. Kerry says

    March 15, 2018 at

    Haha, love this! We were booked to go last September but the weekend we went had the worst stormy weather so all boats were cancelled and we had no chance. Booked again for this June so fingers crossed, otherwise I’ll be following the steps above!!

    Reply
    • Gina says

      April 6, 2018 at

      Hope you have better luck with weather this summer!

      Reply
  5. Jennifer DuBose says

    March 20, 2018 at

    Haha! I laughed my butt off reading this! I can totally imagine making similar faux pas. SO funny and relatable.
    Q: What’s your advice re: the smartest methods for booking (from the U.S. to vendors / excursions / lodgings in Europe) with debit / credit cards, and re: using ATMs in Europe? A friend offered this advice: “Don’t let the vendor convert the currency to dollars for the charge; you will pay them a hefty conversion fee without knowing it.” How does one avoid this?
    Many thanks!

    Reply
  6. Joselle Culp says

    March 29, 2018 at

    Leaving for Ireland with my daughter in early May. Big disappointment trying to get reservation for Skellig Michael land tour! We will try your early bird method. Great read!

    ps – how much is the boat land tour?

    Thank you.

    Reply

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